Hi Steve,
The advance on the dizzy needs to be limited by bending in the stops. It's a pretty easy procedure. If you want to get tricky with it you can drill and tap the stops and use a small grub screw (with locktite!!). I did this to mine to make dialling it in a little easier but it's not really necessary and I won't be recommending it on the final kit as I don't really want to have to deal with bad press due to swarf and grub screws turning distributors into maracas.
This is what I did to mine (you actually drill and tap it upside down to stop the swarf going in there
)
In reality, all you need to do is remove the dizzy, remove the little side cover and bend the stops in using a drift and a light hammer. Then put it back on the car, set the timing to 22 degrees overall (mech) and see where your idle sits. 7-10 degrees should be ideal, if it's not - simply do the whole procedure again bending the stops whichever way they need to go. You could even do it with the dizzy on the bus if you want, you just need to take the side cover off to access the stops and glue it back on once you have finished. Also happy to supply these ready set & tested if required.
As for the power. At this stage I am not really sure on what BHP it will produce. Anything up to double and possibly more is a reality, but there is an obvious trade off between boost and engine longevity (from memory 100bhp would require in region of 17psi on a stock 1600 - far too high IMHO). I'm aiming at somewhere around the 7 or 8psi mark which should hopefully give in the region of 70hp - basically the same power as a stock 2.0 Litre Type 4. If I can achieve this reliably I will be very happy.
Obviously if people want more power all they have to do is swap out the blower pulley and increase the pulley ratio. There are plenty of people running turbos at 12psi on stock 1600's so there will be room for more if people want to overdrive the chargers. There is however a limit to what the AMR500 will put out. This limitation also means that the kit will not work on larger engine sizes as a result. I've got one lined up to go on a 1776 bus over in the UK but this might be pushing it a little. Will be interesting to see how it performs.
Unfortunately trying to calculate the exact output involves too many variables, so it's very hard to give a definitive answer at this stage. I want to get the initial kit dialled in and take it back to the dyno so that I can actually measure the real output. I have already taken the bus there to get baseline readings (39.8 @ wheels / 51 @ flywheel - WOOT!) so will see whats what after I've got the prototype sorted. Once I've gone through the R&D process I will then be able to quote some firm figures rather than just some crazy claim.
Been setting up the jetting tonight. it's still a way off but pulls hard, a massive improvement over the stock 1600 with a PICT34/3. Once the jetting is in the ballpark and I sort out my belt slip issue I will get the final jetting finished off on the dyno and get those final readings.
Plan is to supply carbs ready jetted - this will obviously only be somewhere in the ballpark as all engines are different but should get you running so that you can get the final settings dialled in on a dyno / by the seat of your pants / or whatever other method you prefer.
Mick.
